Blanquette de Veau Ancienne and Escalope de Veau Viennoise
I’m not comfortable with food being described as “sexy”. There can be nothing decidedly defined as sexy in the culinary world. Sexy chicken?? Err no. Sexy egg perhaps? Sorry, no again. But unsexy…yes. Unsexy can be used to describe Blanquette de Veau. Phonetically it sounds like a baby cow blanket, and that would’ve probably been quite nice on my very sexy couch. In reality it is pieces of veal sitting in a very unsexy and boring white sauce with some vegetables.
Wagamama…a very unsexy ramen institution in the UK. The only good thing about this hackneyed chain is No. 71 on the menu – Chicken Katsu Curry. Panko breaded escalope of chicken with a curry sauce and sticky rice. Yummy. When we were given the escalope de veau task I thought to myself, “Yes…a curry sauce and some rice later, we’ve got an upscale Waggas meal right at home”. Oooh how wrong.
U-G-L-Y! Such an ugly dish. Funnily enough, this has been the first dish I’ve got an all-round, well-done, pat-on-the-back-esque positive feedback which feels fantasmical (a combination of fantastic and magical). On time – tick, execution – tick, presentation – tick. Woohoo, go me! But oh my…what an ugger.
Blanquette de Veau Ancienne
1kg boneless veal, cubed into 5cm
1 tendron, cut into pieces
1 carrot, mirepoix
2 onions, 1 mirepoix, 1 halved studded with the cloves
1 leek, white only
6 asparagus, peeled, trimmed, cuire a l’anglaise, cut into pieces
1 cup oignons grelots, glacer a blanc (cooked same as glace a brun except not caramelised or coloured)
1 cup mushrooms, escaloped, cuit dance un blanc (cooked in 1/2 tbsp flour mixed with water covering the mushrooms and some lemon juice)
1 cup cream
3 egg yolks
1. Blanche the meat. Skim off the scum.
2. Put the carrot, onions and leek into the pot with the meat and cook with a simmer for two hours. Season well.
3. Make a roux out of the butter and flour. Chill.
4. Once meat is cooked, remove the meat and reserve warm. Reduce the sauce. Pass through a sieve.
5. Mix the cream with the yolks in a bowl. Once sauce has reached a boil, move off the heat and stir in the cream. Adjust the sauce consistency with roux if needed, and check seasoning. Add in the meat, asparagus, mushrooms and onions.
Escalope de Veau Viennoise, Pommes Saute a Cru
3 hard-boiled eggs (takes 10 minutes in hard simmer water), peeled, whites separated from yolks, each passed through a sieve separately
2 bunches parsley, hacher
3 lemons, 2 cannelee and sliced, 1 pele vif (peeled) and sliced
Big handful of capers, chopped
5 egg whites
6 potatoes, sliced 3mm, rinsed and dried thoroughly
3 cloves of garlic, hacher
1/2L fond brun de veau
4 veal escalopes
1. Saute the potatoes in some peanut oil. Reserve.
2. Flour the escalopes. Dip them in egg white and coat them in breadcrumbs and repeat this step again.
3. Pan fry the escalopes in some peanut oil and a little butter for colour till golden.
4. Sautee the potatoes with some parsley and garlic. Season.
5. Degrease the escalope pan and reduce the fond brun quickly.
6. Serve with the garniture and sauce with potatoes on the side.