Menu Perigord: Cabillaud dans tous ses états
My favourite fish is black cod or butterfish. Butterfish or black cod? I’m confused. Googling hasn’t helped either. They taste the same, or similar at least. Black cod miso…yummm, seared butterfish with honey glazing…yummm. The best I’ve had has been at Roka, London. It doesn’t come cheap, and after a three course meal I felt like I could do with a stop at Maccie D’s.
We were given our Perigord Menu recipes and I was pretty excited about doing all things cod, hoping we’d be re-creating some Roka magic. One of the preparations was a filet, marinated with soy sauce and honey, and glazed. The other was a red pepper stuffed with cod mash (anything with “mash” could either sound homely, in the case of bangers and mash, or sound philistine, like umm…bangers and mash). And then we had cromesquis….MORE CROMESQUIS! This time with salted cod, morue. And of all the different forms, I actually preferred the stuffed pepper, and the pepper sauce.
I’m still on the hunt for some black miso cod in Paris.
Rillettes de Canard, Pain au Mais
The duck legs are marinated in coarse salt for 24 hours to bring the moisture out of the meat. Since being put off by the porc rillette during our charcuterie lesson I was in no hurry to taste this but when I had a teeny tiny serving and ignored the layer of fat on the top, I must say, it made a rather delicious spread.
Marbre de Canard et Foie Gras aux Artichauts et Pommes de Terre Roseval
Still finding no love for the foie gras, I picked out the confit, speck, artichokes and potatoes and loved it. Perhaps it was the speck that did it for me. Salty, crispy, yummy.
Cabillaud dans tous ses Etats
Not the prettiest plates in my opinion. It just looks clumsy. The santa’s hat thing seems unseasonal, the cromesquis are perched rather awkwardly next to the filet, and the blob of sauce just doesn’t add much aesthetically. Where looks let me down, taste didn’t blow me away either. The standout items were the things the piquillos played a part in: the sauce and the santa hat.
Magret de Canard Sauce Ceps
Delicious duck. The sauce was a reduction, with foie gras stirred into in the last minute. It wasn’t overwhelming, which is probably why I didn’t mind it being in it. The broad beans, peas and asparagus together was a beautiful complement. I liked this a lot.
Assortiment de Creme Brule, Mini-brownies, Sorbet Pruneaux Armagnac
I’m loving the massive dessert plates at our regional menus. It’s the course I’m most looking forward to. Brownies are a no-brainer. Brownies with ice-cream? Double no-brainer! The armagnac cut the sweetness of the ice-cream, which only meant that I could go on scoffing it into infinity without feeling sick. The creme brules weren’t very creme-brule-ish since the tops could not be caramelised. Besides I don’t think fruit flavoured creme brules could ever topple the classic.
Cabillaud dans tous ses Etats
1kg cod, cut into pave
50ml soya sauce
500g salted cod or morue
8 piquillos peppers
100ml liquid cream
250g poached morue
1 bunch spring onions
3 red chillies
1/2 red pepper
1/2 bunch chives
2 garlic cloves
1/2 bunch parsley
200ml Noilly prat
1L liquid cream
100g shallots, ciseler
100g garlic, crushed
1. For the sauce, saute the shallots with the garlic in some olive oil. Add in the piquillos, saute for 2 mins, deglace with Noilly and add the cream. Let the sauce cook for 15 mins. If it’s too thick, add in some water to fix the consistency and season for taste. Blend the sauce, pass through a sieve, and reserve warm.
2. For the stuffing, poach the morue in milk, garlic, thyme and water till cooked. The flesh must be firm. Once cooked, reserve the cream having strained off the garnish. Boil the potatoes in their skin, and when cooked, peel and pass through a sieve or potato masher. Mash the morue and potatoes together with some of the cooking liquid. Check seasoning. Put in a piping bag and stuff the peppers. When about to serve, wrap properly with cling film in a tray and steam for 15 minutes at 160C.
3. For the croquettes, mix the eggs, milk, flour together and then add the rest of the ingredients. Let rest in the fridge for 2 hours. Once chilled, make smalls balls, coat in flour, dust off excess, dip in egg white, roll in breadcrumbs, dust off excess, and repeat twice again. Deep fry at 180C and drain on paper towels.
4. Marinate the cod paves in the soya sauce and honey for an hour and a half, flipping over sides after 45 mins. In a non-stick pan, heat some peanut oil and sear skin-side down, after removing excess marinade. Glaze with the marinade, flip over so skin-side is on top and finish cooking in the oven at 180C till flesh is firm. Serve with stuffed piquillos, croquettes and sauce.